pondělí 11. října 2010

Agony & Ecstasy resurrection

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All stuff on this blog is from perished site called Agony & Ecstasy - Erotic spanking & punishments. www dot ecstagony dot com
This site can be made due to credit of http://web.archive.org
Where you can find original texts if you find address
Archive references (Jul 07 2008):
What is goal of this site?
Agony & Ecstasy was a good site with a serie of articles and tutorials about bondage etc. I want to republish this stuff for all who start with a bondage or want to improve basic knowledge about knots and so on.
You can involve
If you find some articles on archive, that would be good to republish. Let me know. I can give you rights as an editor. You just need to become Google and/or blogspot member.
Editors & translaters
I you want to be editors here, write your text or format it in MS Word, with Arial Font size 10 and then copy and place. That's all! Simple! There could rise new blogs like this, but now this blog is devoted to bondage. I also need some corrector. Translates can help translate a site on a new blog, but this is a tip: first make a content schema and then save all articles from the last (chapter 5) to the first (1.1) because the first edited post (5) will be the last. Create all articles at one day, or in one month, not two be in archive divided on two months.
Contents of this blog
See this site (or go on the end of blog):
Content here
October 201
See also Bondage beauty blog with beautiful photos from Denis Chepigo.
See also My knots and ties tutorials.

My recommendations
forumbondage - how to tie knots, ties and much more information about bondage...
bondage-tutorials  - basic knots and ties for beginners
my-knots  - side with inspiration and tutorials for riggers



Unique visitors here (per day)

Bondage tutorial for beginners - Agony & Ecstasy intro


Content of this blog:


Part 1: Extended
New posts here... Here is space for tutorials if somebody want one to be presented here. Here could be good place for karadas.

Part 2: Bondage safety
1. General considerations
2.1 falling
            2.2 fainting
2.3 blood circulation and nerves
            2.4 cramps and joints pain
3. Suspension

            3.1 asphyxia
            3.2 using ropes
4. Equipment and self-bondage

4.1 metal handcuffs
4.2 chains and padlocks
            4.3 self-bondage



Part 3:Knots and bindings
 Chapter 1: knots
1.1 larks head (the most simple and most basic knot)
1.2 square knot (double crossing ends of rope)
1.4 French bowline (used as cuffs for hands or feet)
1.5 buntline hitch (fast tie used for tying a rope to a fixed object)
1.6 prusik (more complicated knot but well tightening rope)
1.7 figure eight knot (ending knot)

Chapter 2: bindings
2.4 hobble
2.5 bar

Chapter 3: using a cable (dangerous!)

Chapter 4: tips

Chapter 5: ropes

1. Bondage safety: General considerations


Bondage is the name of the game of tying the other in different ways, leaving him/her at your mercy. It is a lot more dangerous than a simple spanking, as you will see.

We are not trying to scare you out of bondage with this publication. Being totally defenseless and in the hands of the other feels good. It is wonderful to have the other bound and at your mercy. We only want you to know the risks, and to be prepared, for avoiding problems.

As the German philosopher Michael Schumacher (the one with Ferrari) said, “Shit happens”. And it happens especially if you are not ready for it. Be aware that we can’t anticipate everything. A lot of things can go wrong that we have not mentioned here. So, be careful, keep it safe, sane and consensual, be ready to react fast if “shit happens”, and enjoy the game..

We will, then, talk about the risks of bondage, dividing them in:



General considerations
*         Never use alcohol or drugs when playing any BDSM game. They reduce the judgment, and make everything dangerous.
*         Be sure that both of you are aware of the limits, have discussed and agreed on the rules of the scene, and know the hard limits (limits which, as the ones related to medical conditions, cannot be passed at all).
*         Never let somebody bound without supervision. A bound person is defenseless, and is totally dependent on the top (of course, that's the fun of it). You are responsible for your partner if you have him/her bound.
*         Don’t experiment when playing. The time for research is before or after the session. During it, use only techniques that you master and can safely manage.
*         Never tie somebody for very long, half an hour to one hour at most. If using longer-term bondage, change positions regularly.
*         Check periodically that the bindings do not interfere with blood circulation (cold, purple or numb limbs) or put undue pressure on soft tissue.
*         Double check all the equipment you will use. Be sure that it is strong enough, that it is in good condition, and that you are familiar with its functioning, its possibilities and its shortcomings. You must know how to lock it, how to unlock it, how to use it and how to set it in position. And think about how to take it out fast, even with the locks or knots under tension, if you get in trouble.
*         Have an alternative plan (the famous “plan B”) for releasing your sub if something goes wrong. Think about it in advance and be ready, and you will save yourself from having to think fast and under pressure, and your sub a lot of anguish (or worse).
*         Be alert and check with your sub continually that there are no problems, that s/he is ok, and that everything is going as planned

Don´t trust in your dexterity. Have at hand appropriate scissors or EMT shears,



a serrated blade knife with a round point



and, when possible, use quick release hardware of the type that can be opened under tension. (Look for mountaineering or sailing equipment).



If you are using metal restraints, (chains, for instance) have also a hacksaw with a set of good quality blades and a bolt cutter in your safety bag. (But don’t think that you can cut thru police handcuffs, you’ll better find those %&$@ keys). And have the safety bag with the rescue implements at hand during the session. If “shit happens”, maybe you don’t have the time to look for it.

Most locks come with a set of two or more keys. Use one key for playing, and save another in a safe and known place. Before beginning the session, check that it is still there. Just in case, be sure that your sub also knows where the duplicate keys are.

Keep all locks and padlocks closed and open them just for the game, so you know that you have the keys, and that the lock is functioning.

As the old sailors used to say, hope for the best, but be ready for the worst.


Published: 02/12/04
Source: Agony & Ecstasy

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bondage safety article - my recommendation
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2. Safety: Falling, fainting and other problems


Falling

A common accident is caused by the sub’s falling. This is a cause of many BDSM related injuries. If somebody falls with the hands bound, s/he cannot use them for softening the fall or protecting him/herself, nor use the arms for keeping balance.

And if the feet are bound, it is easy to trip or lose balance. Be careful, don’t make or let him/her walk around or stand by him/herself when bound, or at least be ready to catch him/her if s/he falls. And don’t bind simultaneously hands and feet if your sub will be standing or walking.

Another way of falling is caused by equipment failure. An eyebolt on the ceiling gives, a rope breaks or a knot slips. If something like that happens, the sub will fall defenseless.

It is not necessary for the sub to be suspended for having an accident. If the bondage is what keeps the sub standing, kneeling, or whatever, a failure could hurt him/her.

That is another reason for not tying a person by the neck, even with no tension. If s/he falls, the sudden jerk could break his/her neck vertebrae or choke him/her.


Fainting

You could also fall when fainting. And it is easy to faint when your body is restrained, because of the difficulty in breathing (for instance, with your hands tied over your head or the trunk tightly bound or in a forced position), the reduced blood circulation and/or the long periods of immobility. Be ready for a fast release if you notice that your sub is fainting.

Lack of food is another reason for fainting. Be sure that your sub is conveniently fed. (Some people prefer not to eat for several hours before a scene. That’s not right, as it is not right overeating immediately before the scene).


Blood circulation and nerves

Too tight a bondage, especially on wrists and ankles can restrict circulation. A long time without blood circulation will damage the tissue that is not properly fed. The sub will feel numbness or tingling on the hands or feet. After that, the limbs will look puffed, dark red or purple, and cold to the touch. The problem must be corrected immediately, by changing the tension or position of the bondage, or releasing the person.

Too tight a bondage or bondage in inappropriate places can cause nerves’ pinching. It is felt as focused pain or as shooting pains. If it happens, release the sub immediately, because you are hurting him/her.

A good rule of thumb for being sure that the restraint is not too tight is testing that you can slide at least one finger between the restraint and the skin.
 

Cramps and joints pain

Restrained circulation, plus the tension on muscles, nerves and the joints caused by prolonged binding in a fixed or uncomfortable position will cause cramps. A cramp is caused by lactic acid accumulation in a muscle that cannot be properly drained by the restricted movement and circulation. The cramped muscle should be relaxed as soon as possible, for not causing permanent damage.

After a long time in the same position, it will be very painful for the sub to move the joints that were immobilized. Many hours will restrict mobility for a long time, if not permanently.

Cramps and joint problems are the reasons for recommending changing positions regularly.

Actors who play characters with deformities (as Quasimodo, the hunchback of Notre Dame), that have to work many hours under restraints for maintaining their awkward positions, use to have physical therapists and trainers for massages and elongation work after every filming day. Do something similar.


Published: 02/12/04
Source: Agony & Ecstasy

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bondage safety article - my recommendation

3. Safety: Suspension

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Suspension

You shouldn't suspend somebody totally in the air. It is too dangerous. The crucified's death was due to respiratory arrest for hanging a long time from the arms. Of course, the ones hanged from the neck died a lot faster, by asphyxia or by rupture of cervical vertebrae. Is it necessary to tell you that you should not hang anybody by the neck?

Hanging the sub upside down (by the feet, for instance) is also dangerous. All the circulatory system has developed for functioning in an upright position, and doesn’t work well when the body is inverted. Blood accumulates in the head (producing dizziness) and chest. If you have to do it, do it only for short periods.

When somebody is hanging, all the body weight falls on the part of the body resting on the bindings. It can interfere in the blood circulation or in the breathing muscles, and cause rope burns and bruises.

The only reasonably safe way for suspending your partner is using the appropriate harnesses and specialized gear. Hanging with ropes requires a deep knowledge of the techniques.

Do not hang a woman by her breasts or a man by his testicles. Most persons would prefer to have them firmly attached to their bodies and functioning normally, and the body’s weight will most probably damage them if not tearing them out. Don’t even make your sub stand on tiptoes by tensioning a woman’s breasts or a man’s testicles. If s/he looses balance or faints and falls, s/he will be badly hurt. And I don’t care if you saw photos of people doing it. I said NO and I meant NO.

If you are going to suspend your partner, even if letting him/her rest the toes on the floor, or just tying him/her with the hands up, be sure that the hardware is correctly installed and can bear the weight and the stress of a struggling body (about five time’s the person’s weight). Check also that the rope and gear is in working condition. If something gives under tension, the bottom cannot use his/her hands to stop the fall and can be seriously injured.


Don't leave anybody bound with his/her hands up for long time, even if standing on their feet.


Asphyxia:

(neck, rope, gags, positional)

Asphyxia is probably the most common cause of BDSM related deaths.

Never put any pressure on your sub’s neck. Not even with your hands. Breath restriction, even if some say that is arousing and results in good orgasms, is absolutely forbidden in a safe and sane relationship. It is deadly. That fantastic orgasm can be (and too frequently is) the last.

Just in case, never tie anything around your sub’s neck but a good quality collar, and never tie that collar to anything fixed. A fall or fainting can cause the neck receiving an unintended pressure.

Pressing the neck doesn’t only restrict breathing; it also restricts blood circulation to the brain. Both are necessary for living. Death comes very fast when one or both of them stops and even a short restriction in blood circulation can result in brain damage.

Asphyxia also happens when a rope or other restraint that was not intended to put pressure on the neck slips and does. Be careful.

Another way of asphyxiating is when gagged. Be sure that the gag does not restrict breathing.


Never cover both your sub’s mouth and nose. Use only gags intended for that purpose. Ball gags are a good option, because they leave open areas for breathing. Ok, if air can get in, air can come out, and your sub can make some noise. But is better getting some noise than killing your sub.

And if you decide, against our recommendation, using a gag that impedes breathing by the mouth be sure that you sub can breath by her nose. If she has a cold or any other similar medical condition, she will not.

Never use, as seen on the movies, clothes inside the mouth for gagging. They can be partially swallowed, restricting breath and making him/her choke, and they can trigger a vomit reflex in your sub.

Vomiting in your gag and choking on the vomit is another common way for asphyxiating. It can happen also without a gag, if the sub is immobilized on his/her back, and can’t throw the vomit.

This is another very good reason for being able to release your sub pretty fast.

There is yet another way of asphyxiating, just for the position. It happens because a fatigue of the breathing muscles, for having to work forced, but it could also happen because, due to the bondage, not enough air enters the lungs. We already mentioned that being tied for long periods with the hands over the head, especially if hanging, can cause asphyxia. But it could happen when spread-eagled, even if laying, especially if the bindings are too tense. Asphyxia can also happen because of a too tight bondage on the chest and belly, or too long tied with the body weight resting on the belly, doubled up or in many other forced positions.

Check constantly that your sub has no problems, never let him/her alone when bound, and be ready to release him/her immediately if s/he had difficulty in breathing.


Using ropes

The first thing to talk about ropes is its diameter. Appropriate rope’s diameters are from 1/4 to 3/8” of an inch (6 to 10 mm.). If they are thinner, they will put a too concentrated pressure on the skin, and can cut or at least leave deep marks, including bruises, which, with wider ones, if not too tight, you could avoid. If thicker, they don’t coil tight enough and are difficult to knot.

Another problem is the abrasion caused by the rope’s friction on the skin, called usually “rope burn”. Rope burns are produced in the moment of tying or untying the sub, if for tightening the bonds you let the rope slide on the skin, and by the movements of the prisoner for escaping the bindings. You should avoid the first one. Hemp or other rugged ropes burn the skin more easily than cotton or soft nylon ones.

Red marks on the skin are almost unavoidable, but they look nice. Release the prisoner at least a couple of hours before showing in public places. If too tight, for too long, or under tension, bondage can cause bruises, finally scrapping the skin.
 


Published: 02/12/04
Source: Agony & Ecstasy
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bondage safety article - my recommendation

 

4. Safety: Equipment and self-bondage


Using metal handcuffs

If using police type handcuffs, be sure you get good quality, actual police ones. Low quality handcuffs are made of two not too thick plates, that come apart as soon as you put pressure sideways on them.

Good handcuffs have also a mechanism for avoiding them closing tighter under pressure, cutting the blood circulation and damaging the wrists’ or ankles’ tendons and nerves. The device should be a small pin on the base of the lock on the handcuffs, which is pressed with another pin on the top of the key for blocking. If they have other kinds of blocking devices, as a small lever on the side of the lock, don’t buy them.


Good handcuffs' key


Cheap handcuffs' key

Be sure that you blocked the lock after closing the handcuffs on your sub. You don’t need to close them tightly.
 

Keep a backup key in a safe place, in case you lose the one you are using. If you don’t have the key, you will probably need professional help for cutting them. But the handcuffs keys have no combination. Most keys will open most handcuffs (it has to be so, so the prisoner can be passed from cop to cop without passing also the keys), so it is easy to get backups.

Metal and skin don’t mix well. You don’t need (or should) close the handcuffs tightly, just enough for your sub not being able of slip the hands thru them. Don't hang your bottom from metal handcuffs, even if resting the feet on the floor, and don't let him/her laying with the weight of the body over them.


With chains and padlocks

When using chains, don’t use them too tight (that’s the good thing about chains, they don’t have to be tight to be secure). Same as with the handcuffs, don’t hang your sub with them, and don’t let his/her body rest over chained wrists. Metal restraints can hurt tendons and nerves.

In general, the chains must be loose, never putting pressure on the subs body. For hanging, stretching or any other position that requires tension, tie the chains to leather cuffs on your subs limbs.

Again, be sure that you have the padlock keys, and that the padlocks are in working order. If possible, get a set of matched padlocks that share the same keys (they are available). I will save you to be fumbling with the keychain trying to find the right key. If you can’t get one, mark somehow the locks and its matching keys (maybe a dot of paint of a different color for each set). You will be glad for having spent some time on it if you have to unlock your sub in a hurry.


Self-bondage

At the beginning we told you that that this information was not for trying to scare you out of BDSM. This section tries to scare you out of self-bondage.

Self-bondage is extremely dangerous. Many deaths in BDSM occur to people that bind themselves and cannot escape afterwards.

The main problem is that if you bind yourself in a way in which it easy to escape from, you lose most of the thrill of bondage. So people invent many ways of tying themselves in such a form that the ways of escaping are limited (We will not mention any, so you don’t get tempted. And all the ones we know can fail). If those ways fail for any reason, they are in what many times becomes a deadly trap.

If you are trusting in some kind of time-release mechanism, and you have any problem, you could be dead if it doesn’t work, or if you cannot wait until it works. What are you going to do if you vomit on your gag, for instance? Or what if you faint? What if something unexpected happens?

Maintaining a position for too long (hanging from the arms, resting with all your weight on your belly, and many others) could fatigue the respiratory muscles. If it happens and you cannot release yourself pretty fast or if you faint before releasing yourself, you are dead.

A rope can slip and begin suffocating you, your circulation can be restricted and your hands become so numb that you cannot use your fingers for opening the lock. There could be a fire in the house. And most emergencies will  worsen with time.

You can’t be ready for everything. Something that neither you nor we can anticipate could happen.

Above we are saying “never leave a bound person unattended”. And if you bind yourself, you will be bound and alone, a losing proposition.

Don’t play solo bondage. Trust me. DON'T DO IT.


Published: 12/02/04
Source: Agony & Ecstasy


See similar

bondage safety article - my recommendation

středa 6. října 2010

5.1 about ropes


Ropes are, for us and for many, the best materials for bondage. They look well over the skin, were used throughout history for the purpose, and are what we grew up seeing on movies and TV, so it matches our fantasies of prisoners. Only they require knowing a little about knots, but not too much for our games, as you will see in the corresponding article.

Ropes can be found almost anywhere, but don’t forget to check in sailboat shops. Sailboats use many kinds of rope, mostly synthetic nowadays.
Types of ropes
For our games, there are two main types of ropes, twisted and braided.

Twisted ropes are the traditional ones, made for centuries along history. A rope is made of long fibers, vegetable then, mostly synthetic now.

Those fibers are twisted into "yarns". Three of these yarns are made fast at one point, and then individually twisted, all in the same direction and at the same time, at the other point. As the tension of the twisting increases, the three yarns will coil one around the other in the opposite direction, forming the rope.
The usual way for making thicker rope is beginning the same twisting procedure with three thinner ropes.

The twisted rope can be smooth or rough, depending on the material. It bytes more into the skin, it doesn’t slide easily, and after some time, leaves beautiful diagonal bondage marks on the sub’s skin which can last from minutes to some hours, depending on the rope’s type and the sub’s skin. .

Braided rope is usually made of a soft braided skin over a core of untwisted or twisted fibers. The materials on the cover and the core can be similar or different.




Even if they are not as traditional and do not leave as beautiful marks on the sub, they are softer on the skin, and usually easier to slide, knot and handle.

The braided rope could have no core, in which case it is called a “hollow braid”. It can also be solid, braided for all the rope thickness. Solid braid is firm, round and tightly woven. Finally, it could be braid over an also braided core, which is called “braid on braid”, very strong and expensive.

There are other types of “ropes”, some of them found easily, as those that are made of a single strand of plastic, or plastic coated rope, that are sold everywhere for clotheslines. They are of no use in our games, because they are too thin and not strong enough.

Materials
The original, historical ropes were made with twisted natural fibers. Even when they look good over the skin, they usually feel rough and hard. Hemp and jute are commonly used for bondage.
  • Cotton, for us the best of the natural ropes is in a different category form the other natural fibers. It is the only one that is not rough on the skin. It comes twisted and after washing, it becomes soft. I like the soft feeling of cotton, especially if the bondage will be long-term. The problem with cotton is that it is not as strong, so it should not be used for suspension, and that is hard to find nowadays.
  • Hemp, a fiber from the cannabis plant, is the typical rope on the old sailing ships and for Japanese bondage.  They fibers are softer than the manila ones and do not leave splinters. Repeated washing softens it. Anyway, it will produce rope burns if rubbed on the skin. The subject will have to stay quiet, because struggling against a hemp rope will chafe the skin. "Whipcord" is made of  hemp fibers.
  • Jute is made from a soft fiber extracted form the inside of the bark of some East Indian plants of the linden family. It is good for bondage, because it is not so rough, and it is also commonly used for bondage in Japan. It has the same abrasive conditions as hemp.
  • Manila is made from the leaf stems of the abaca plant, a member of the banana family. The fibers are hard, and this kind of rope is not usually used for bondage because the fibers can break and leave splinters on the skin.
  • Sisal, from plants of the agave family, is a modern equivalent to hemp. It is also a hard fiber, with the same problems as manila, but it is not so strong.
  • Coir, made form the outer fibers of the coconut husks, is rough and hard. It is the rope used to made coconut mats. It has no use for us, just for you to know.

As for the synthetic materials,
  • Nylon, that comes twisted or braided, has most of the feeling of cotton. It is silky, but the knots can slide a little more easily than in the natural fibers. Is the most used for almost all everyday uses, including bondage, if you are not a traditionalist. It is elastic, stretches a lot, and can absorb sudden loads. The braided versions can be found in two-color combinations.
  • Forget polypropylene ropes, the ones used, for instance, for the water-skiing rope. It is hard, rough, and unsuitable. You will find them everywhere; but just touching it, you will know that it is not fit for our games.
  • Rayon, used mainly in sailboats, has all the advantages of nylon for our purposes, only it is more expensive.
  • Dacron (polyester) is similar to nylon, even if it is not as strong or elastic as it. They are sold in craft stores for decorative purposes. They come in matching or contrasting colors that can be esthetically pleasant. . We have some braided Dacron rope, and we like it as we like cotton.
  • Kevlar (stronger then steel, used on bulletproof vests), usually with a Dacron braid, is too expensive for our purposes
  • Parachute cord, braided over a monofilament core, is soft and strong, but it is too thin for most uses.
  • Finally, climbing rope, made of exotic materials, is the strongest; only it is expensive, and too thick for binding somebody.

Which one?
The ones commonly used for bondage are hemp and yute, among the natural fiber ones, and, the most frequently used, nylon among the synthetic. We like cotton and Dacron, not so easy to find.

There are several matters to consider when selecting the rope you will use for bondage:
  • Comfort. If you want your sub to be comfortable, go for the nylon, dacron or cotton ropes. If you prefer a rougher feeling on the skin, go for hemp or jute.
  • The purpose of the bondage. If it is just for restraining, and the actual stimulation will be from a flogging or any other playing, choose the softer ones. If the bondage is the stimulation in itself, go for the rougher ones.
  • Another is aesthetics. If you like the traditional look when your sub is bound, go for natural fibers. If you like the spiral markings on the skin, go for twisted ropes. Twisted cotton and nylon leave marks, but not as much as the natural fibers.
  • There could be a health consideration also. Natural fiber could produce allergy in sensitive people. You could test by tying loosely a piece of rope around one of your subs limbs, and controlling the results. If there is reddening, swelling or itching, don’t use that type of rope.
     
Published: 02/24/05
Rev: 04/26/05; 10/12/05
Agony & Ecstasy